10 things to know about Chicago’s unofficial spirit
Malört, the notoriously bitter Chicago liquor, has transitioned from a local curiosity to a national phenomenon. Once confined to Illinois, the spirit, known for its challenging flavor profile, is now available in 33 states.
Few spirits inspire such a mix of fear, fascination, and fierce loyalty as Malört, the bitter, herbaceous liquor that has become Chicago’s unofficial badge of honor—and a test of courage for anyone bold enough to take a shot.
Unforgiving Flavor Profile
Malört’s taste is divisive, often described as bitter, herbaceous, and reminiscent of citrus pith, with notes like “dandelion juice through a straw made of car tires.” Yet, for some, it’s strangely appealing.
Chicago’s Unofficial Spirit
Malört, deeply tied to Chicago, was introduced by Carl Jeppson, a Swedish immigrant. It has become a badge of honor for locals and a symbol of Midwestern toughness.
Survived Prohibition
Legend has it Malört survived Prohibition because its intensely bitter flavor was mistaken for medicinal rather than recreational.
Adopted by Bartenders
Around a decade ago, Chicago bartenders embraced Malört as a low-ABV (35%) spirit that could be sipped during shifts without derailing work. It quickly became an “industry cool” symbol.
The Chicago Handshake
The quintessential pairing is a shot of Malört with a cold local beer, like Old Style lager, known affectionately as the “Chicago Handshake.”
Going National, But Staying Niche
Once exclusive to Illinois, Malört is now distributed in 33 states, but it remains a conversation starter and retains its quirky, niche appeal. Many see it as a test of one’s palate and toughness.
Malört Evangelists
Die-hard fans and bars like Pepp’s Pub in New Orleans celebrate the spirit with events like “Malörtigras” and first-timer initiation shots. The bar even collects Polaroid reactions with poetic captions like “Swamp grass in July.”
Symbol of Midwest Identity
Malört’s rough, unpolished edge speaks to the Midwest’s blue-collar roots. Its growth outside Chicago taps into a longing for authentic, working-class culture in gentrified areas like Seattle.
Cocktail Outlier
While Malört is rarely used in cocktails, notable exceptions include the “Hard Sell,” a mix of Malört, gin, lemon, and elderflower liqueur at Honore Club in Brooklyn. But for purists, it’s best enjoyed neat or in a Chicago Handshake.
Cultural Icon and Conversation Starter
Despite fears of losing its local charm as it gains popularity, Malört’s unapologetic bitterness ensures it remains a niche favorite. It’s a drink that fosters camaraderie, humor, and storytelling, embodying Midwestern sincerity.
In essence, Malört is more than just a spirit; it’s a cultural artifact, a test of courage, and a unifier for those willing to embrace its bold character.
